Water(b)logged: Lake Taupo to River Valley

Waitomo-Lake Taupo
With the weather still a bit blustery from the previous day, we skipped the early morning caving expedition and instead headed toward our first stop of the day -- the beautiful Huka Falls. We disembarked into drizzly gray weather and walked the short path to view the powerful Huka Falls on the Waikato River. The cascading ice-blue water surges through a gorge only 20 meters wide, creating magnificent falls and rapids as it pours through the channel. It was a mesmerizing sight. Leaving Huka Falls, we passed through Tongariro National Park, the oldest national park in New Zealand and a dual World Heritage Site, recognized for both its natural beauty and its Maori cultural associations. Tongariro National Park is also home to several Lord of the Rings landmarks, including the Gates of Mordor and the familiar cone-shaped mountain Ngauruhoe (Na-ru-hoe-e), better known as 'Mt. Doom.' Several more hours of iPod-fueled driving (I thought this country was supposed to be small?) and we sleepily exited the bus in Taupo -- so named (obviously) because it sits on the shores of Lake Taupo. This magnificent body of water, spanning 616 square kilometres, is the largest lake in Australasia (real word, I swear) and the site of one of the world's largest known volcanic explosions, around 186 AD. To give you an idea of scale, the lake is large enough to fit all of Singapore, with room to spare. We settled into our lodging for the night (New Zealand has the nicest, cleanest hostels) and joined everyone down at the bar for a drink. Or ten.

Note to self: am too old to drink like this.

The next morning, feeling the after-effects of last night's fun, we were secretly relieved to find that our 6+ hour hike through the Tongariro National Park had been postponed due to inclemental weather. But once I had subdued my raging hangover with a pancake breakfast and a much-needed coffee, I was a little disappointed to be missing out on the Tongariro Crossing because it is meant to be one of the most visually stunning (albeit physically challenging) one-day hikes in the world. Ah well, next time. Instead, we spent a refreshingly low-key afternoon reading, watching movies, and catching up on correspondence. Unable to stomach another night of drinking, we retired early to bed, excited for another day of new adventures.









Lake Taupo to River Valley
Dreary weather aside, it was a pleasant surprise to find out - once aboard the bus - that we would not be missing out on the scenic pleasures of the beautiful Tongariro National Park after all. In fact, we had a full-day's worth of activity ahead of us. Our first stop was an invigorating (albeit chilly) two hour hike along the Taranaki Falls trail. The hike began with short climb through low beech forest, then slowly emerged into alpine shrubland with panoramic views of the mountains - Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe - before spilling out in front of the plunging Taranaki Falls. All around us, the swirling gray mist covered the landscape like a blanket, concealing the mountains and softening the edges of the horizon. From here we continued our walk through native bush and beech forest to the Tawhai Falls (yet another Lord of the Rings location), a small but beautiful waterfall spilling out from the edge of an ancient lava flow. Piling back on the bus, we began the winding, scenic drive to the verdant green River Valley, where we disembarked at the remote River Valley Adventure Lodge -- a cozy, rustic lodge situated at the base of towering shrub-covered hills along the Rangitikei River. It felt a bit like sleepaway camp, as we spent the night playing card games in front of the crackling fireplace, gorging ourselves on a delicious meal of homemade roast, and finally - after a rousing game of Trivial Pursuit - clambering up the ladder into the massive 10-person bunk bed to fall fast asleep.







Beach Hikes & Maori Nights

The day of departure on the Kiwi Experience had finally arrived, and I was all too eager to begin the adventure and leave Auckland far behind. I joined the procession of backpackers at the early morning busstop, giving the driver my name as I stepped aboard what would become my second home (and the main mode of transportation) for the next few weeks: the Big Green Kiwi Bus. Our driver, GP, took to calling us 'possums' for no discernable reason, and seemed to have a wealth of knowledge about New Zealand and Māori culture. A quick stop at the head office for paperwork (and a coffee from the Starbucks next door), and we were on our way!

Auckland - Mercury Bay
Bypassing the scenic lookout from Mount Eden - one of the 70 dormant volcanoes in the region - out first stop of the day was Cathedral Cove, a stunning stretch of beach accessible only by foot or kayak. From the car park at the top of the headland, we set off down the walking track, and I struck up a conversation with three English guys - Russ, Matt and Kevin - and two English girls, Kirsty and Kate. Upon reaching the beautiful whitesand beach, we spread out our towels and were joined by several others, including Louise (another Brit), traveling buddies BJ and Ryan (English and Scottish), and Jade the Aussie. By the time we'd made the walk back up to the bus, we'd formed our own little traveling group -- The Family. Piling back on the bus, we continued to our destination for the night -- the town of Whitianga (Fit-ee-anga), the main settlement of Mercury Bay. Arriving at the cozy Turtle Cove hostel, we were greeted with a hearty homemade spaghetti bolognese dinner and cheery, clean rooms. After a few round of drinks with my new friends, I sunk into my white pillowy blankets and drifted off to sleep.


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Mercury Bay - Rotorua
After an early morning start and a much-needed coffee stop, we arrived at the Karangahake Scenic Reserve for a nature walk through the bush-clad gorge, across rickety swing bridges and through a precariously dark old railway tunnel, a remnant of the reserve's long-abandoned gold mine. Back on the road, we passed through the town of Matamata, which served as the filming location for Hobbiton in the Lord of the Rings trilogy. A few photos with the Hobbiton sign and we continued on to our destination, the town of Rotorua. The Māori name for the town is 'Whangapipiro' (Fong-a-pe-pero), meaning 'evil-smelling place' due to the rather toxic-smelling sulphur dioxide fumes from the geothermal activity in the region. The volcanic activity in Rotorua (besides releasing a rotten-egg stench) creates some of the region's most impressive volcanic geysers and hot mud pools (free spa, anyone?) That evening we enjoyed a traditional Maori experience at the Tamaki Maori Village: a customary welcome ceremony signaled our entry to the recreation of a pre-European Maori village, where they performed the haka (a traditional Maori war dance) and served the hāngi, a traditionally-cooked feast made in an earth oven, or cooking pit. With full bellies and a greater understanding of Maori history and culture, we boarded the bus back to the hostel for a night of drinks and fun.





Rotorua - Waitomo
Our first stop of the day, aside from the requisite mid-drive breakfast stop, was a New Zealand outdoor theme park, complete with a sheep-shearing show (say THAT three times fast), and plenty of adrenaline-pumping activities such as bungy jumping, Freefall Xtreme body flying (a real thing), and more. With it being too early in the morning for extreme sports and too expensive to watch sheep being sheared, Jade and I opted to catch some sun on the grass instead. Bad idea, as we had inadvertantly positioned ourselves next to the high speed Jet Boat watercourse, and -- quite without warning -- were drenched head to toe with a wall of water. On the upside, they gave us a free ride in the Jet Boat (which surges up to 100kph in four seconds!) for our troubles. From here we made our way to Waitomo, our destination for the evening. The name Waitomo comes from the Maori words 'wai' meaning water and 'tomo' meaning cave, and not surprisingly the town is reknowned for its underground limestone and glowworm caves, as well as blackwater rafting. Unfortunately, by the time we reached Waitomo the weather had turned dark and brooding, so we opted for a cozy night playing card games instead.

New Zealand: the Kiwi Experience

Kia Ora from Aotearoa! Arriving in Auckland after a short flight from Sydney, I was ready to begin my last grand adventure before returning home to the states: a tour of New Zealand on the Kiwi Experience, a hop-on/hop-off guided tour that ferries travelers (generally of the backpacker variety) around the North and South Islands. In a giant green bus. Fantastic. Upon phoning the Kiwi Experience office and finding out that the next available bus would not be departing for another four days, I booked myself a bed at the Base Backpackers hostel and set out to see what Auckland had to offer. I was, in a word, underwhelmed. No offense to Aucklanders (Aucklandites?), but your city is very, very boring.

By the time Thursday rolled around, I was itching to get on with the Kiwi Experience! Next up, my journey through New Zealand begins ... with a giant green bus.

Home Sweet Sydney

Ahh, home for the holidays. Except, not so much "home" as "favorite new Australian city," and not so much "holidays" as ... well, ok it was the holidays, but certainly not looking the way they usually do. Whoever heard of an 80 degree New Years, or a Christmas Day BBQ? Aussies, that's who. I arrived back in sunny Sydney a few days before Christmas, happy to be back in a familiar city and happy to see a familiar face -- Mark, who I decided to stay an extra three weeks with in Sydney before heading on to New Zealand.

My three weeks in Sydney were a whirlwind of holiday celebrations, sightseeing and exploring the city, spending time with Mark and friends, and generally falling in love with Sydney. As Australia's oldest, largest and most diverse city, Sydney has the sort of irresistible mix of wholesome charm and cosmopolitan edge that only a little-Big City can, offering beautiful parks and beaches for outdoor recreation and plenty of restaurants, bars and clubs for an indulgent nightlife. From the crowded beaches and sprawling parks to bustling street cafés and the harbour dotted with sails, Sydney is the active person's playground.

I spent my days taking in all that Sydney has to offer, which is (to state the obvious) quite a lot. The beautiful Sydney Harbour -- with its stunning view of the iconic Sydney Opera House and the towering Sydney Harbour Bridge -- is one of the city's main attractions. From here it is an easy walk to The Rocks (and the best pancake joint EVER) or a short ferry ride to the amazing Taronga Zoo. We even took the lift up to the top of the Sydney Tower for a magnificent panoramic view of the city.

But not all of Sydney’s attractions lie in the Harbour. The city is also famous for its beaches, and I made frequent visits to the most famous one of all – Bondi Beach. Inbetween trips to the seashore with Anya (my friend from Fraser Island) to touch up my tan, I immersed myself in the Sydney experience: Christmas shopping along George Street and the Queen Victoria Building downtown, strolling along the fig-lined avenue in Hyde Park, picnicking in the Royal Botanic Gardens, discovering quaint new cafés and shops in Surrey Hills, visiting Mark at work in Darling Harbour, nagivating the city by the wonderfully efficient underground lightrail system, and of course a spectacular viewing of the world-famous Sydney New Years Eve fireworks! And for icing on the cake, a road trip down the south coast to Jervis Bay, Wollongong, and Canberra, the capital city of Australia.

Sadly my all-too-short stay in Sydney was drawing to a close, and it was time to begin my next adventure. With some tearful goodbyes and one last wave to Sydney, I boarded a plane bound for New Zealand, and the last leg of my journey.








Cairns pt.II: Cape Trib, Crocs & Cassowaries

My day-trip expedition to the outer reaches of Cape Tribulation, the Daintree National Park and Port Douglas began at silly o'clock in the morning as I climbed aboard the shuttle and was greeted by our energetic tour guide Andrew, who took to calling me "Seattle" because, why not. As we made our way north up the coast, our guide pointed out that we were driving along one of the most beautiful scenic roads in Australia, second only to the Great Ocean Road between Adelaide and Melbourne. And with a view of rolling green sugarcane fields on one side and the sparkling blue Coral Sea on the other, it didn't disappoint. Our first stop of the day was a croc-spotting cruise along the Daintree River, where we were rewarded with the sight of a giant saltwater crocodile, lovingly nicknamed 'Scarface' by park operators, emerging from the water and lumbering up the bank. Those "No Swimming" signs posted along the river are no joke.

From the Daintree River we continued north, stopping for a leisurely stroll under the thick canopy of the Daintree Rainforest -- the oldest tropical rainforest on earth, believed to date back 150-200 million years -- and an amazing panoramic view from the Alexandra Range lookout before disembarking at Cape Tribulation Beach, the only place in the world where two world heritage areas collide: the Wet Tropics Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef. After admiring this unique and beautiful, but unfortunately named, spit of coast (so named, along with 'Mount Sorrow' and 'Weary Bay,' by a clearly troubled Captain James Cook), we made our way to Mossman Gorge. The Mossman River flows over large granite boulders that line the gorge, creating pools of crystal-clear water holes for swimming, and the steep hillsides extending from the riverbank are cloaked in lush rainforest.

Next up: Port Douglas, with a brief stop en route at the famous Daintree Ice Cream Company -- a boutique ice creamery renowned for its exquisite desserts made from local tropical fruits such as Black Sapote, Soursop, Wattle Seed and Jackfruit. Odd names aside, it was delicious. We spent an hour our so touring the charming town of Port Douglas -- a sun-drenched vacation spot with a mainstreet featuring quaint shops and cafés and a sizeable celebrity following -- before boarding the bus and making the scenic drive back to Cairns.

Another few days in Cairns and then it's back to Sydney for the holidays!